Chitlins with Fred

Pig intestines are an integral part of cuisine across the globe, however they have a special significance in African-American culture, albeit extremely divisive. Fred remembers the annual holiday debate about whether chitlins would be featured on their family’s Thanksgiving menu. He remembers the multi-day process of preparing chitlins for consumption, including the stench that would take over the entire house, the care with which his mother cleaned and stewed them, and various relatives’ reactions to this dish. 

To some, chitlins seem unappetizing, unhealthful, and associated with slavery. For Fred, they represent resistance and survival. “It’s only been as I’ve gotten older that I realize what was going on. Thinking about that allowed me to fully embrace that history. Thinking back on it gives me a chance to relish in the pride of it. There’s just something about being the underdog that American culture relishes. When you’re African American you don't have to make it up - you weren’t even allowed in the game.” 

Fred grew up in Saginaw, Michigan, which he describes as a “dying factory town; what happens when capitalism leaves you behind.” His mother is from Mississippi, and cooking is her love language. Fred remembers cornbread and greens, and feeling wrapped in a cocoon of her love expressed through food. We talked about the challenges of growing up and developing one’s own identity - specifically learning to appreciate things that society has made us feel ashamed about, especially when it comes ot racial identity. “The story of Black liberation and culture is a great human story, the most American of all the stories. It’s been a process learning to fully embrace it and be full-throated in my promotion of it. 

Thank you, Fred, for sharing your story with us this week. To learn more about the tradition behind chitlins, check out this article from Detroit Free Press.